A few photos...

A little ice bouldering at Advanced Base Camp to stave off the boredom and insanity of being stuck at 18,500ft for over three weeks!

 

 

Summit Push and Big Decisions

Making a decision to turn around when so close to the summit is one of the easiest yet heart wrenching decisions ever. I say easy because your life flashes before you and you immediately think of those you love and want so desperately to see again. I say heart wrenching because you have invested so much to get to this moment of choice. We left at 8:00 pm and had been climbing in the dark for nine hours.....as the sun was beginning to hit our faces we were standing just below the French couloir at approximately 8,250m. I knew the summit was just a little over 150m and two hours away. The sun would warm us.....the climbing was not difficult.....we had come so far....for a split second we all thought, we are going to make it....then the lead Sherpa signaled for us to retreat by circling his arm in the air. My heart sunk yet I was the first to turn....no questions to ask... just start walking down. My husband, my family and my friends were in my thoughts. I had everything to lose and absolutely nothing but my name on a list (Himalayan database) to gain.

My oxygen system had failed at camp three and while delivering a slight flow of O's it was unreliable, it was very windy, and our Sherpa team ran out of fixed rope and could not protect the couloir (while it was 5.4 - 5.5 rock climbing, going up was easy, coming down without oxygen could be devastating) and my climbing partner had previously turned around. Bottom line, I was not willing to take the risk. It would be an additional 3-4 hours round trip to complete the last 100m. It would take me another 12 hours to get back to the safety of C2 for a total summit bid of 25 hours. To turn now would still be a 21 hour day. On an 8,000m peak it has to be 100% no question to proceed. I had three very fast reasons to turn around. No rope, no partner, and no guaranteed oxygen flow. I heard my grandma tell me to play it safe and be smart.

Here is a little taste what you leave on the table when you turn and walk away:
3 months with no work and therefore no income.
$13,500 for a spot on the expedition.
$2,500 airline ticket to Kathmandu (29 hours each way)
$3,000 in incremental/new/lost/damaged gear.
$400 in excess baggage.
$350 in evacuation insurance.
$1,000 in unexpected helicopter cost.
$600 in high altitude medications.
$1,000 in oxygen.
$900 in mask and regulator.
$750 in staff tips.
$750 in incremental travel costs.
58 days living out of a duffle.
8 years of weekly weight lifting sessions with Chris Morris (pure hell).

What I gained is a newfound respect and appreciation as to why so few have stood on top of this mountain. My hat goes off to those who have completed the journey. It was great to witness our German friends reach the summit! They were strong, fast and qualified. There is no gimme on this mountain. Makalu goes to only those who are 100% dialed and ready. In summation, Makalu kicked my ass but I love her more than any other mountain for reminding me who is in charge :-). The experience was simply priceless.

Tonya

 

Around 7 AM...on the way back down from our summit push..

Back In Kathmandu

Would you believe me if I told you I took a John Deere tractor to get from base camp to Kathmandu?  Well it is partially true. Makalu sits in a valley where there are no roads, similar to Everest.  One can walk for hours and not see another human....unlike Everest.  When we left base camp, we hiked a good 10-12 hours a day from village to village on a single track trail.  It was amazing to see the change in terrain.  The landscape was lush and bright green. The ice and snow was virtually gone and we were graced with waterfalls and rhododendron flowers in full bloom (pictures to follow soon).

After five days of walking out we come to a village called Num where a road has begun to be developed to support enterprise.  Unfortunately the road is a dirt road which becomes a small river when the monsoon arrives.....and the monsoon has arrived.  Our team boarded a John Deere which took 8 hours to go 60 kilometers to Tumlingtar yesterday. We took turns riding in the trailer with the expedition duffles. We were soaked to the bone from the torrential downpour. 

In some ways the ride was a great relief after trekking 10-12 hours for five days on steep terrain and slippery stones. We arrive to our destination, eat a plate of dhal baht, drink either a Touborg Beer, Coke or Milk tea and toss our sleeping bag onto a wooden bed with a one inch pad and hard pillow that we do not dare make direct contact with.  We sleep soundly and peacefully. 

When we woke up this morning we did not know if weather would permit flights to Kathmandu.....but we got lucky and got on one of four flights out.  It too was a rough ride but a dry one.  The shower felt great after 58 days without one.  A real mattress is a blessing.....and a/c a bonus.  I chose a hotel with a pool.....and cannot wait to jump in.  tomorrow I long to make a trip to Fire and Ice for pizza and ice cream. 

I look forward to giving you my full report of our summit bid and to posting photos.

-Tonya

 

Enjoying the Monsoon rain from the back of a bumpy trailer - being pulled by a not too quiet tractor

 

Headed to Kathmandu

Tonya is now off the mountain and well on her way to Kathmandu.  She is currently in the village of Sedewa - half way through a six day hike to Tumlingtar.  Once in Tumlingtar, she will catch a plane to Kathmandu. 

Back in Base Camp

Tonya is safely back in Base Camp now and will begin making her way to Kathmandu in the next day or two.  Not sure at this time if she will be taking a chopper ride back to Kathmandu or hiking out.  From the limited communications we've had, it sounds like they had a very long summit push and turned around primarily from the weather, but also experienced oxygen system malfunctions that were quite troubling.  She said their push for the top and return back to BC was the most difficult thing she has ever done.  All of that being said, everyone on the team is now safe and sound at BC and it will be great to hear the whole story from Tonya.

Quick Update

Tonya is safe and sound at Camp 2.  She is spending the night at C2 and will be descending further down the mountain in the morning.

Summit Push Update

The team has decided to turn back 300 meters short of the summit.  It is now 7:45 am Nepal time and they have been climbing for 12 hours.  I have not spoken directly to Tonya, but am hearing news from one of her climbing partners that has been sending updates on the team's behalf from his satellite phone.  It appears the weather is moving in, high winds picking up and precipitation moving in.  Moving further up into the French Coulior - the steepest part of summit day - is becoming impossible, or at the very least foolish.  Everyone is now on their descent to high camp at 25,500ft.  Updates to follow as news comes in.