Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Dear Tom (On Being There)

Dear Tom,

My dear friend and climbing instructor!  You were there when I showed up to the CMC to learn basic mountaineering skills, there when I could not get up Arapahoe Peak wearing my tennis shoes, there when I got my pony tail stuck in the belay device and needed assistance getting down, there when I needed a bowline on a coil to go pee pee on the Matron, there when I backed off the Bastille first pitch out of extreme fear, and most importantly....there when I called from Everest Base Camp 2006!

Over the last few days as I prepare for Makalu, I am reminded of all the support you provided in getting me ready to go to Everest years ago.  I have spent the last two days playing with the HotTronic boot heaters you researched and prepared for me when I was most worried about losing a toe from frostbite.  We learned about these little devices when Ellen Milller spoke at Outdoor Divas after her summit of Mount Everest.  These little battery operated heated foot pads, borrowed from the ski industry, are a reasonable insurance policy.  With an average weighted cost of approximately $100/per toe, they are worth their weight in gold.

In yesterday's test, I found they would stay warm for close to 8 hours on a low setting of 2.  We both know this is reduced to closer to 5-6 hours in the extreme cold temps of the high Himals.  I reflect on all the effort you endured in getting the company to send us some extension cords so that the batteries could be carried in my chest pockets vs. being attached to the back of my boot where they risk being knocked off and being exposed to the extreme cold temps.

The only challenge with this system is getting a good charge at BaseCamp and being scorned for being a Shi Shi climber in the 21st century.  How did Mallory and Irvine manage with leather boots?

Tom for all your care and concern, I appreciate you so much.  Thank you for being there.